Pet toys are not legally required to meet any specific safety standard in the US or EU — no federal or EU agency oversees them the way children’s toys are

Shore Hardness Explained: Picking the Right Hardness for Each Dog Toy Type
Shore hardness is a durometer scale used to quantify how firm or soft an elastomer (like natural rubber) is. A Shore A hardness gauge presses a calibrated indenter into the material and reads a value from 0–100, where higher numbers mean a stiffer material. For example, a standard rubber band is about Shore A 20 (very soft), a pencil eraser about Shore 40–50, and a car tire tread roughly Shore 70. In practice, natural rubber pet toys span roughly Shore A 15–85 depending on their purpose. Manufacturers follow ASTM D2240 testing procedures: samples (≥6 mm thick) are pressed by the durometer foot and the hardness read after ~1 second to ensure consistency. (Very soft gel-like materials use the Shore 00 scale, but most rubber toys use Shore A.)
Shore A durometers measure the firmness of elastomers: higher numbers (up to 100) mean a harder material. This digital durometer is used by quality-control labs to check rubber toy hardness.
Shore A hardness is a critical design parameter for dog toys because it directly affects durability, flexibility, and safety. Hardness helps manufacturers ensure consistent quality and performance. For example, natural rubber is chosen for toys because it balances high tensile/tear strength with enough “give” to be gentle on teeth. However, the exact Shore A value must match the toy’s purpose and the pet’s needs. A very soft toy (low Shore A) feels gentle in the mouth and is easy to grip, but it can tear or abrade quickly under hard chewing. A very hard toy (high Shore A) resists punctures and lasts longer, but if it’s too stiff it may not bounce well, can be boring to chew, or even risk tooth fractures. In short, choosing the right hardness is a balancing act – firm enough to withstand chewing, yet soft enough to avoid injury. For instance, one industry guideline is “look for toys with a hardness of 60–70 Shore A” to maximize durability without becoming dangerously hard.
Hardness Ranges for Common Toy Categories
Toy designers tailor Shore A values to the pet’s size, chewing strength, and the toy’s function. Typical guidelines are:
- Puppies/Teething Toys (Light chew): Very soft. Shore A 15–30 is ideal to soothe sore gums and protect baby teeth. (A pencil eraser is about Shore 40–50, so ~30A feels mushy.) E.g. the KONG Puppy toy uses about Shore 30A rubber. Such toys will indent easily under bite, but are purposely flexible to be safe.
- Small Dogs / Light Chewers: Soft-to-medium. Shore A 30–50 (often 40–50A) is recommended for small breeds or gentle chewers. At ~40–50A, the toy is firm but still flexes under a small dog’s bite (roughly the hardness of a shoe sole or car rubber seal). This prevents small dogs’ teeth from excessive stress while still lasting longer than ultra-soft compounds.
- Average/All-Purpose Chew Toys: Medium. Shore A 50–60 is common for standard chew toys and most fetch balls. At this range, rubber is durable and bouncy yet not too rigid. For example, many high-quality fetch balls (like the Chuckit! Ultra) are made of natural rubber around 55–60A, giving good rebound and shape retention. Similarly, squeaky rubber balls often target ~60–70A so the material is firm enough to produce sound and resist wear but soft enough to activate the squeaker.
- Heavy-Duty / Aggressive Chewers: Hard. Shore A 60–80 (even 85) is typical for toys meant for power chewers. In this range rubber is very tough – a human nail can barely indent ~70A. For instance, many “indestructible” chew sticks and black KONG Extreme toys are made at ~70–75A (comparable to skateboard wheels or hard hats). Some specialty toys reach ~80–85A for maximum life (e.g. layers of firm natural rubber or reinforced TPR), though care is taken to stay below ~85A to avoid risking tooth damage. A common design trick is multi-layer: a firm core (~60–65A) with a slightly softer outer layer (~45–50A) provides durability plus a “cushion” on the biting surface.
- Fetch Toys (Balls, Discs): Balls typically use 50–65A natural rubber for good bounce and grip. A soft ball (<50A) may not bounce high, and an extremely hard (>70A) ball bounces poorly and can hurt on catch. Rubber frisbee‑style discs often run 40–60A: lower (~40A) makes them very flexible and safe for claws, while higher (~60A) gives stiffer flight. (One example silicone disc at ~50A can fold by hand but still fly well.) Tug toys or rings usually target 50–70A rubber, since they must resist pulling and teeth without being rock-solid. Many incorporate braided ropes or layered handles to compensate, allowing a slightly lower hardness for better stretch.
- Treat-Dispensing / Puzzle Toys: These need enough stiffness to hold treats but enough squish to let dogs extract them. Designers often use 40–60A rubber or food-safe silicone. For example, the classic Kong Classic is about Shore 50A – firm enough to last but soft enough to flex when chewed. A 40A toy is quite soft (easy to squeeze and useful if frozen with treats), whereas a 60A version would last longer under heavy gnawing. Many treat toys end up near the mid-50A range as a “sweet spot” of flex and toughness.
(These ranges overlap by design – brands often tier their lines: e.g. a “soft chew” (~30A) for seniors/puppies, “medium chew” (~50A) for average dogs, and “power chew” (~70A+) for aggressive chewers.)
How Hardness Affects Durability, Flexibility, and Safety
- Durability: Higher Shore A generally means better resistance to puncture, wear and chunking. A 70A rubber tolerates a powerful bite far longer than a 30A rubber. That’s why “tough chew” toys are usually formulated around 60–80A. Some extreme toys even approach 90A (comparable to a hard roller skate wheel). However, hardness has limits: beyond ~85A a toy becomes so stiff that interest drops and tooth injury risk rises. In practice, a slightly softer toy may incur cosmetic teeth marks but remain intact, whereas an overly hard toy could crack a tooth.
- Flexibility and Bounce: Lower-durometer materials (softer rubber) deform and stretch much more. A soft toy will compress under a dog’s mouth, which can massage gums and be more satisfying to chew. Softness also aids bounce up to a point: mid-range rubber (around 50–60A) provides the best spring-back for fetch balls. Very soft balls (below 40A) tend to just flop (“thud” sound) when dropped, while very hard balls (90A+) bounce erratically and can hurt. For example, many rubber balls designed for dogs (orange/blue high-bounce balls) use ~55–65A natural rubber to balance bounce and resilience.
- Bite Feel and Safety: A soft rubber (<40A) is gentle on teeth and ideal for puppies, small or senior dogs. It yields under bite, reducing tooth stress. In fact, the KONG Puppy toy (30A) was formulated so very young pups can chew safely. Conversely, an extremely hard toy can be abrasive. Veterinary experts warn that antlers or hard nylon (well above 80A) can fracture teeth. As a rule of thumb, anything much above Shore 80–85A is approaching stone-hard – generally too stiff for a dog’s jaws. On the flip side, if a toy is too soft (say <20A) and the pet easily bites off pieces, it becomes a choking hazard. Thus designers ensure chew toys are “soft enough to be safe, hard enough to not fragment”. For instance, treat-dispensing toys are typically softer to encourage interaction, whereas hard chews are built firmer to avoid large pieces breaking free.
- Material Trade-offs: Hardness often correlates with other properties. Softer elastomers have lower tensile/tear strength and higher elongation, while harder compounds are stronger but less stretchy. For example, a 30A silicone may stretch enormously but tear easily if pulled, whereas a 70A silicone holds much more force but snaps with less stretch. Designers must consider these trade-offs: making a toy too soft can make it flimsy, while too hard can make it brittle. Often a mid-range hardness hits the balance of durability and toughness needed for that toy type.
Balancing Softness vs. Strength in Design
Finding the right Shore A is always an exercise in compromise. Bulletproof durability versus chew comfort is a spectrum: you should err slightly softer if unsure, since a bit of cosmetic damage is safer than a tooth fracture. In practice, many brands offer tiered hardness: e.g. “soft” (~30A) for gentle play, “medium” (~50A) for general use, and “power chew” (~70A) for heavy-duty. Composite designs also help (see product examples in the sidebar). For example, an aggressive chewer’s bone might use 70–75A natural rubber (like a skateboard wheel) so teeth only sink in slightly, yet the tip or outside could be 45–50A rubber for a cushioned bite. Ultimately, the target hardness depends on pet size, age, and use-case: a tug toy for a large dog might warrant 60–70A, while the same shape for a puppy would be ~20–30A. Brands must balance softness for a good mouthfeel against firmness for longevity and safety.
Real-world examples put this in context: Shore 40A (e.g. soft TPR) is very pliable – about like squeezing a gel insole. Shore 80A rubber (comparable to car tire or hard rollerblade wheels) is much stiffer and only dents slightly under finger pressure. As one published guide notes, “the difference between a 30A and a 70A chew toy could be the difference between a toy shredded in minutes and one that lasts for months”. KONG™ dog toys exemplify this range: the red Classic KONG is about Shore 50A (medium firmness), the pink Puppy KONG ~30A (soft), and the black Extreme KONG ~80–90A (extra hard). Each is matched to a different chewer.
Testing and Production Considerations
In manufacturing, hardness must be tightly controlled. Producers measure each batch with Shore durometers per ASTM D2240 standards. A typical protocol: press the Shore A gauge onto a >6 mm sample and read the value after ~1 s to avoid time-dependent creep. Digital or analog durometers are regularly calibrated against certified blocks. A toy specified at Shore 50A might be accepted only if it reads within a few points (often ±2–5A) of that target. If a batch skews too soft or hard, the compound formula or cure cycle is adjusted (e.g. changing curing agent or filler) and re-molded.
Other QA steps complement hardness testing: tensile/tear tests verify that a soft formula still meets strength targets, and simulated “bite-cycle” machines can chew on samples thousands of times to check longevity. In mass production, slight variations can occur (due to temperature, mixing, etc.), so manufacturers document processing settings meticulously to hit consistent hardness. Even after molding, dimensions, wall thickness, and any layered bonds are inspected to ensure the toy performs as intended. In summary, hardness control is as crucial as chemical safety: it guarantees each toy meets the promised durability and safety specifications.
In conclusion, Shore A hardness is a key design lever for rubber dog toys. By understanding how a given durometer rating translates to real-world performance, product teams can tailor toys for the right audience: puppies get very soft (15–30A) chews, gentle small dogs get mild firmness (30–50A), power chewers get firm compounds (60–80A), and fetch or puzzle toys fall in between (often 40–60A). Balancing softness against durability ensures a toy is both enjoyable and long-lived. Using careful testing (Shore durometers, tensile machines, chew simulators) and clear specifications, manufacturers can reliably hit those hardness targets. The result is safer, more effective pet toys – for example, a Shore 40A puppy ring that soothes gums or a Shore 75A chew stick that survives relentless jaws. Ultimately, matching material hardness to each toy’s type and target pet yields the best combination of fun, function, and safety.